custom long arm/engine swap

[stikboy13]

just gonna start my own thread. I have a 2000 TJ 4.0 5 speed. When i got it a year ago it had 3.73 gears, Mickey Thompson wheels and 33 x 12.5 x 15 Goodyear wranglers and no lift. I installed superlift 4" springs and Rusty's rear track arm bracket, front lower control arms, and front and rear sway bar links. Next up was a Kenwood cd player, BA speakers, Rockford Fosgate amp and a 10" sub in a down firing sealed enclosure in the bottom of the rear seat. It's great! still have the little storage space behind the seat for whatever and the seat is still removable in seconds.

I decided to build my own long arm system based on a Clayton Hardarm system

Got the front lower control arm mounts finished

4"x4" 1/4" plate. Radiused on top, and releif cut on the sides to fit inside my 4" chanel. Hole is 9/16". Centered (2") side to side and 1.5" from top.



All welded up.4" chanel is 5 1/4" on long side and 4 1/5" on short side. plates are welded flush on square side and spacing is 2 9/16" or the width of a factory bushing


then the overhang was just trimmed at an angle for asthetics. Tapered side follows the contour of the frame in front of the skidplate, and front of chanel is relief cut for arm clearance.
     
bushing adapter rings (turned on lathe) specs are 2.275" id machined .7"deep then stepping to 2.24". Od is 2 7/8" x 2" wide


bushing adapter ring welded on


factory bushing pressed in


arms are 31.5" long from top of adapter ring to end of tube without tube adapter installed. This makes the shortest possible length of the front lower arms 31.25" bolt hole center to bolt hole center

[stikboy13]

Got the front lower frame mounts welded to the frame and spaced them 1/4" forward of the skid plate using a scrap plate.


Front upper (radius) arms are 16 3/8 eye to eye

[GHOST00TJ]

looks great and pretty stout. My 4link is made from 1/4" square tube absolutely no problems with it.

[stikboy13]

Trimmed the truss for heighth. I just cut it to where I have 1/4" clearance above the third member. Finish welded my joints and upper control arm brackets



Also got the frame side control arm mounts finished. Brackets plates are the same size as the ones I cut for the front with the upper plates left without the notches for the chanel clearance



I have the lower rear arms done. These are 33 3/4" center to center.


I'm waiting on my last two joints to shop up. I decided to make the upper arms adjustable on the axel end and have a weld on JJ on the frame end.

Next is to drop the transfer skid and trim for my mounts, move my exhaust around, weld the mounts in place, and fit the truss onto the axel!

[JParuBob]

Just make sure you get the geometry right. I know a guy who did his own system for the rear with a 3/4 elliptic setup. His geometry was wrong, he was trying to back it out of his garage, it hopped ~4 feet in the air and broke his high angle driveline.

[stikboy13]

Thanks. This is basically a copy (loosly) of a Clayton Hard Arm system. I have also run it through a calculator to be on the safe side.

[GURU]

Trust me, this guy knows what he's doing.
Nice work Rich, as ususal.

[stikboy13]

alright, so I'm a bit slow lol. When I went to drop the skid, I got 3 of the Allen headed bolts out and 3 ended up with broken bits in them. Long story short, I just now found enough time to fix the situation.

Got the skid out and cut:
Passenger side 6 1/4 X 2 1/ (on my 2000):

Driver side 6 1/4 X 5 1/2 section:


Mount to frame:


Welded, painted, skid plate installed:

[OldYJ]

 looks good

[mrfast]

Looking good Rich, I've envied your work for the last couple of years!-----Rich can build some cool bumpers also!

[stikboy13]

Guru took it for an extended drive in Arkansas over few days. Then to joplin one day. Said it drove great. Now that I know how it performs on road I need to get an off road test going. Lol

thanks Steve! about the bumpers here's a pic of what I think I'm going to do next...

Gonna cut the stinger down a little so it's not so tall.

[stikboy13]

WOOHOO... It's only been a month since I said I was gonna complete the rear, and now it's done!

Got the rear upper arms cut to length and joints welded on:


I can get a length if anyone wants it, but i basically welded the truss on, installed the lower arms, set my pinion angle and measured the length they needed to be and bolted them in.

lowers installed:


uppers installed:


Again, onroad feel was so much better, now it needs an offroad test.

Now the exhaust. I'm still planning on the 5.9 install and I dont wanna redo the exhaust. So the tailpipe is 3" in preperation and I used a cheapo turbo muffler for the time being.

trackbar mount removed and overaxel mocked up:


Yes, I know the original rear upper control arm mounts are still there, but not for long
getting ready to mock up to muffler:


rear hanger and tip:


out and welded up:

[stikboy13]

Ok, so in part two, I had some vacation time at work that I have to use for else I'm going to lose it. I woke up and decided I would use a few of the days for engine swap. I had a 5.9 Magnum that was pulled out of a freightliner that I did an engine swap on some time previous. I also decided to use the automatic from the freightliner. I traded a case of beer for two defunct automatics out of a four wheel drive Dodge. After combining the three I had a working four wheel drive transmission to go behind my new 5.9. I put the plan in motion a little over a year ago before my daughter was born. At that time I purchased a harness from a salvage yard and started weading through it because there is no way I'm paying $700 for somebody to do it for me.

day one start off really well.


 I decided to take the front sheet metal off to make the process a little easier.


got a kind of late start. started at 9:00am. by 1:00 pm the front and was bare


good time to break for lunch. when I came back out to work I hit my first snag. The input shaft of the transfer case of the Jeep was too long to use on the Dodge transmission.
My Jeep transfer case is on the left. A transfer case out of a 91 Cherokee six cylinder is on the right. I was going to use the Cherokee case but it is the wrong spline.


I could have ordered a new input shaft and waited for a week for to show up. I could have gone to a salvage yard and tried to find the correct one. I figured I have a lathe and that's what it's for so I machined it down.


7:00 end of day 1

[stikboy13]

Day 2! That started off with reassembling the transfer case and mounting it up to the transmission. I also decided to make a bracket to eliminate the body bracket for the transfer shifter. I cut a 2" strip of 1/8" sheet, bent it 90 degrees, drilled a hole and welded it to the original bracket. This turned out to be a really good thing because I found out the clocking of the Dodge transmission is defferent than the Jeep:


While the front frame was bare, I bent the pinch weld on the drivers side fire wall in for exhaust clearance:


After placing the 5.9 in and out numerous times, I finally had the engine in a location I liked. I decided to use the Freightliner engine mounts, which are the same as the Dodge pickup. I also used the Frightliner frame mounts and cut them down to fit. The pickup frame mounts would have worked also if someone wanted to go that route:



Next step was transmission mount. I didn't have the mount adapter that bolts to the transmission so I made my own out of 1/4" plate. It is bolted to the factory Jeep tranny mount and skid plate so no special cross member or skid modification was needed:


After initial mock up was made, I added a 3/8" spacer between the plate and the mount to gain a little extra clearance. I was also able to remove the 1" transfer drop I had originally installed withe the 4.0!

Sitting fully mounted:


Still having some time left, I started in on the wiring. This is how I ended day 2:

[stikboy13]

Day 3 continues with the wiring. I was going to town sorting out all of the fun stuff when I discovered the harness I had didn't match up to the transmission plugs and a few of the engine plugs. So, I scrapped it and started over. Before I started this endevor, I had contacted Evan at Backwoods Offroad since he has done many of these swaps. I had asked if the 98 Dodge pcm would communicate with the 2000 Jeep instrument cluster. This was before I had both shop manuals and determined that Yes they will talk just fine. He refused to give any "free" advice. So, for anyone searching for schematics or wondering what had to be done, here is all of my wiring changes. Altough these may be the same for more than the years of hardware I am using, use caution and double check all connections!
 
C103 Black Firewall Connector
1  OR/DG O2 Sensor ----- Splice to OR/DG of Dodge Harness
2  DG/OR Alternator-PCM ----- Splice into DG/OR of Dodge Harness
3  RD/WT PDC-PCM Power ----- Splice to RD/WT of Dodge Harness PCM C1 22
4  Not Used
5  Not Used
6  DB/LG Fuel Level Sensor ----- Unchanged
7  DG/WT Fuel Pump Power Relay ----- Unchanged
8  BR/YL Speed Sensor Ground-PCM ----- Unchanged
9 RD/LG
10 BK/TN PCM-ADLD ----- Unchanged
11 BK/LB PCM-ADLD ----- Unchanged
12 WT/OR Speed Sensor ----- Splice to WT/OR of Dodge Harness PCM C2 27
13 BK/RD Transfer Case Indicator-Instrument Panel ----- Unchanged
14 DB/BK A/C Clutch-Compressor Clutch Relay in PDC ----- Splice to DB/BK (a/c clutch) of Dodge Harness
 
C104 Gray Firewall Connector
1 LG A/C High Pressure Switch -----LG/WT (a/c high pressure switch) of Dodge Harness
2 DB/WT A/C Low Pressure Switch
3 Not Used
4 Not Used
5 BR/LB PDC Starter Relay Ground-PCM ----- Splice to BK/WT of Dodge Harness PCM C1 6
6 Not Used
7 Not Used
8 Not Used
9 VT/BK
10 VT/WT Neutral Safety/Backup light Power ----- Splice to BR/LG of Dodge Transmission Harness
11 DG/LG Injector/coil Power
12 BR PDC Starter Relay-Starter ------- Spliced on Starter Wire From Dodge
13 DB PCM-Fuse Block ----- Splice to LG/BK of Dodge Harness PCM C1 2
14 Not Used
 
*VT/BK wire from Dodge transmission harness is for backup lights. I have added auxiliary backup lights so I spliced this into the relay for them.
 
C1 4 I had to y splice the BR/YL from the speed sensor into the BR/YL sensor ground of the Dodge harness since I made a stand alone speed sensor/fuel pump/transfer case harness
C1 31,32 BK/TN of Dodge harness must be y spliced into BK/TN of original Jeep harness.
C2 31 I had to y splice the VI/OR from the speed sensor into the OR 5v ref of the Dodge harness since I made a stand-alone speed sensor/fuel pump/transfer case harness.
 
Transmission control relay (Colors are for my relay plug reference only)
30 ----- BR/OR ----- Battery
85 ----- YL -----PK/BK PCM C2 30
86 ----- VI/OR ----- DG/LG from Alternator
87 ----- PI/WT ----- transmission plug pin 1
 
Cooling fan relay

 
A/C System
DB/BK from Dodge compressor to DB/BK C103 14 of Jeep
DB/OR from A/C low-pressure switch spliced to DB of Dodge high-pressure switch
LG/WT from Dodge high-pressure switch spliced LG C104 1 of Jeep
Overdrive
PCM C3 13 Transmission overdrive sense to momentary switch (added on) second terminal grounded
PCM C3 6 Overdrive lamp driver to amber led (added on) second terminal grounded

Sorry for the rotation of the diagram. I couldnt get it to rotate...