Author Topic: Relocating Battery  (Read 1728 times)

Offline last boyscout

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Relocating Battery
« on: 12/ 3/07 - 02:33PM »
i'm relocating my battery to the back of my cj7.  i'm having a little trouble finding 2gauge cable for sale by the foot.  i can find #2 welding cable by the foot.  anyone know what the stranding difference between battery and welding cable?
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Offline LibertyPatriot

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Re: Relocating Battery
« Reply #1 on: 12/ 3/07 - 04:55PM »
Isn't welding cable a finer strand and more of them?  I think it's better cable than standard battery cable and I'm sure more expensive too.  If you just want battery cable I'd try a truck stop or farm supply.  Race Bros. will probably try and sell you welding cable anyway but they do have a lot of battery terminal stuff back over by the tractor tires and supplies.

Keith
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Offline Liberty03

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Re: Relocating Battery
« Reply #2 on: 12/ 3/07 - 10:39PM »
Just go to a car audio shop...I got my 0AWG for my battery relocation at Car-Fi.

Offline CRAZY LARRY

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Re: Relocating Battery
« Reply #3 on: 12/ 3/07 - 11:51PM »
I would used the welding cable. the fine wire will carry the volts and amps better. the elec. travel on the outside of the wire. so the more wires the better the flow.
« Last Edit: 12/ 3/07 - 11:54PM by CRAZY LARRY »
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Offline OJTV8CJ

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Re: Relocating Battery
« Reply #4 on: 12/ 4/07 - 11:28AM »
I would used the welding cable. the fine wire will carry the volts and amps better. the elec. travel on the outside of the wire. so the more wires the better the flow.

DO IT.  Plus, it will be more flexible.  If you need help with soldering on the ends let me know.  I just built mine and have the heatshrink too.
I cut sheetmetal for free.  It's fixing it that get's expensive.

Offline TanYJ

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Re: Relocating Battery
« Reply #5 on: 12/ 4/07 - 02:41PM »
I got my 1/0 at Kirk's welding supplies on Commercial st.  It's expensive, but worth it.  Also, definately solder it to the ends, and don't be stingy with the heat shrink.  I use my set up to power my winch and made a Ho'-made QD jumper cable set-up.  I can post up some pics later if you want.
« Last Edit: 12/ 4/07 - 02:43PM by TanYJ »
J-ust.................It's
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E-very............To be
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Offline LoneWolf

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Re: Relocating Battery
« Reply #6 on: 12/ 4/07 - 03:37PM »
I can post up some pics later if you want.

Post em up.
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Offline last boyscout

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Re: Relocating Battery
« Reply #7 on: 12/ 4/07 - 05:18PM »
i was looking at #2 for $2.19 at race brothers.  should i go with #1?

dick, how much did you give for the #1?  if you can post some pics.
STEP 1: BUILD IT
STEP 2: BREAK IT
STEP 3: REPEAT

Offline TanYJ

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Re: Relocating Battery
« Reply #8 on: 12/ 4/07 - 08:07PM »
I did all that a couple years ago, and i think it was $3-something a foot.  I do remember that 12' was almost $40, and then there was the good heavy ends, not the cheap ones, and the QD plugs were $12 each, and the plug covers were around $3 each.  Also, i used 1/0, not #1, it's a bit heavier.  Let me get some clothes on, and I'll go shoot a couple pics & post them in here.

OK, here's the pics:
Battery & connectors

Heavy duty Quick-detach plugs

routing them to the frame/plug (notice the flex)

Ghetto Warn winch & jumper cables


Total cost INCLUDING the winch was less than $450.  I think I have around $80 in materials.    Just the cable QD & jumper kit from Warn is over $300, now.

« Last Edit: 12/ 7/07 - 12:33AM by TanYJ »
J-ust.................It's
E-mpty.............Hip
E-very............To be
P-ocket.........[-]====[-]
.....The second mouse gets the cheese.....
"Skinny models, you can keep those..I like big corn-fed mid-western ho's"

Offline last boyscout

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Re: Relocating Battery
« Reply #9 on: 12/12/07 - 03:25PM »
new question.  does the ground have to go all the way back to the main ground in the harness?  my buddy, that's helping me, says it does.  why can't you just run all the grounds to the frame.  i'm relocating to the rear of the jeep.  the motor i'm swapping is a 98 4.0 xj OBDII into my cj7.
STEP 1: BUILD IT
STEP 2: BREAK IT
STEP 3: REPEAT

Offline LibertyPatriot

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Re: Relocating Battery
« Reply #10 on: 12/12/07 - 04:22PM »
If I were doing it I'd run a ground from the battery to the harness and to the frame/unibody from the battery and also ground the engine to the frame/unibody.  With EFI stuff, most electical problems are due to insufficient grounding.
I'd put something funny here, but you probably wouldn't get it anyway...